The components should be attached to a small wooden board (a PCB is probably not suitable for heavy coils) and then wired up.
It's best to buy the ready cut boards in a building supplies or timber store.
Start with one side panel and glue the two front panels, as well as the bottom
and cover to it.
Afterwards the panels have to be prepared for the cables of the crossover.
A 10 mm hole has to be drilled into the 95 mm long horizontal board. A 10 mm hole for each pair of cables (and 8 mm for one cable)
has to be drilled into the 252 and 380 mm slanted boards. The holes on all boards may be drilled close to the edges.
Now the dividing boards have to fitted and glued. The cables are fed through the holes and fixed with plasticine or wooden pins so that later the drivers, the crossover and the terminal may be connected.
It's time now to insert the damping material. 3 bags damping material are available
for one cabinet, each consisting of 2 fleece. 4 of them are going to be folded
lengthwise and placed into the transmission line duct. The remaining two fleece
are going to be placed into the midrange / tweeter compartment.
After insertion of the damping material, the crossover needs to be fitted in the lower sealed compartment and connected to the drivers and then to the terminal. The second side panel and finally the rear wall have to be fitted and glued.
After all glue has dried, holes for the terminal, the front bass reflex port and the drivers have to be cut-out. It would be great to fit the tweeter countersunk by 5 mm.
Should you have problems in cutting 38 mm holes with your compass saw, wee recommend to cut-out the holes before assembly.
If required, the surface should be treated now and finally the drivers (the wider connector represents plus) and terminal should be connected and then fitted.
We are sure you will enjoy this great speaker. It's a kit that can be used
by those who have little experience in building wooden cabinets.
The cutting edges across (i.e. the ones with 152 mm running from left to right) need be cut with an angle of 6 °, while the two lower boards with 152 mm cutting edges need an angle of 36 °.
The picture on the left with a baffle and rear wall of 1046 mm results in a cabinet that is 1040 mm high, when tilted.